Shilin-Yuanshan One-Day Tour: Charms North & South of the Keelung River

TEXT　Rick Charette

PHOTOS　Chen Cheng-Kuo, Geotechnical Engineering Office, Department Of Information And Tourism

The Shilin and Yuanshan areas are visually dramatic. The districts are situated on opposite sides of the Keelung River, where low mountain spurs spill out onto the Taipei Basin floor. In this article, you will be introduced to a set of key representative tourist draws: the gardens of a former Chiang Kai-shek spread, the Forest Ark observation platform where the stunning view awaits, a long-pedigree night market, and the legendary "Combat Zone" pub/bar quarter.

Chiang Kai-Shek Shilin Residence

The 12.9-hectare CKS Shilin Residence grounds, stretched out along Section 5 of Zhongshan North Road, are an easy 10-minute stroll east from the MRT Shilin Station. The site is tucked up against the same mountain spur that the iconic Grand Hotel Taipei sits on, the Chinese-palace-style hotel perched near its tip looking out over the Taipei Basin from its elevated-throne roost.

There are two elements to this very popular attraction: heritage structures associated with former President Chiang Kai-shek and his wife, Soong Mei-ling, and the expansive tranquil gardens. This park area has its roots in Taiwan's 1895~1945 Japanese era, when it was home to the Shilin Horticultural Experimental Station. After Chiang and the authorities arrived in Taiwan, he chose this oasis as one of his residences for its mountain-backed landscape that reminded him of his childhood home.

The main Chiang-related structures are the official residence, which is a two-story Western-style abode, a guesthouse for visiting dignitaries, the Victory Chapel (the Chiangs were practicing Christians), and scenic pavilions. The couple's home was painted dark green for protective concealment, blending in with the surrounding woods. Residence tours are available at 10:30am and 3:30pm on all open days.

▲Tulp Festival

The exquisite gardens feature both Chinese- and Western-style horticultural sections, with the emphasis on flowers. Stars of the efflorescent show, which change with the seasons, are plum blossoms, chrysanthemums, and roses, the Chiangs' personal favorites. There are varied special flower celebrations throughout the year – should you visit in February, don't miss out on the fantasia colors of the big annual Shilin Residence Tulip Festival.

Chiang Kai-Shek Shilin Residence 士林官邸

🚩60, Fulin Rd., Shilin Dist.

📞(02) 2883-6340

🔗www.mbcksslr.taipei

🕝Tue-Sun 9:30am-12:00pm, 1:30pm-5:00pm

Forest Ark

Fancy climbing aboard a grand ark to view the city, spread out wide before you at your feet? How done, you ask? The city's new "Forest Ark" lookout, opened in August, is located atop the mountain spur behind the efflorescent-façade Grand Hotel Taipei in the heavily forested Yuanshan Scenic Area.

The bow points straight past and over the hotel, looking southwest at the city's historic West District. Reach it via the Jiantanshan Hiking Trail, part of the celebrated Taipei Grand Trail network; find the trailhead beside Zhongshan North Road just south of small Jiantan Fuzheng Temple, which is about 5 minutes south of MRT Jiantan Station. Note that the climb to the ark has many stairs and is comparatively steep.

▲View from the Forest Ark, with the Grand Hotel in the foreground

The ark is an oversized viewing platform built in the shape of a ship's front end, complete with a ship's wheel on the "deck" and an anchor hanging from a porthole. In days of yore, the Keelung River at the foot of Yuanshan, or "Round Mountain," was an important boat-traffic artery, and the ark was designed by the city government as a "ship sailing through the forest." When breezes flow, it's easy to imagine you're set to sail right over the city.

▲On the Forest Ark

Note that a short hike beyond the ark brings you to another highly popular lookout built in recent years, the North Eye Platform, which points west and presents rip-roaring sunset canvases.

Zhongshan Shopping District

The Yuanshan spur peters out south of the Keelung River, MRT Yuanshan Station, and the landscaped Yuanshan Park Area of Taipei Expo Park at its south edge, the metro station giving you quick access to the vibrant Zhongshan Shopping District. This district grew around the long, tree-lined, Zhongshan North Road, which was constructed by the Japanese as a promenade from the old walled city area to their august Taipei Shinto shrine, where the Grand Hotel now stands. Because of the establishment of the US Military Assistance Advisory Group after World War II, based at the intersection of Zhongshan North and Minzu road, the area also has American cultural characteristics. Trendy, stylish shops grew up along the thoroughfare (still true of the district today), and commercial activity spread deeply down the road-and-lane grids on either side.

▲Shuancheng Street Night Market

About 15 minutes on foot from MRT Yuanshan Station (Zhongshan Elementary School Station is even closer), the moderate-sized Shuangcheng Street Night Market dates back to the early 1970s. Well-organized, with standardized orange signboards, the existence of many pubs/bars nearby brings in a steady knock-on flow of foreign tourists. Taipei's first regional demonstration night market, check out the Southeast Asian food sellers, notably the eatery Fathom.

The market and mini-battalion of pubs/bars are in what was once known as the "Combat Zone," which arose as an R&R entertainment enclave for US military personnel during the Vietnam War, swarming with nightclubs and girlie bars. Today much tamed, European-style pubs and hostess bars predominate. These include Green Door, the oldest existing bar in the area, opened in 1977, as well as My Place and Manila, both in operation since the 1980s.

🍷Please drink responsibly.